Honeywell Chronotherm III TS8602C to profesjonalny regulator temperatury, który oferuje wiele funkcji, w tym precyzyjną kontrolę temperatury, automatyczny start i zaprogramowane programy dostosowane do różnych potrzeb. Jest to prosty w obsłudze regulator temperatury, który pozwala użytkownikom precyzyjnie określić temperaturę, którą chcą uzyskać w ich domu lub innym pomieszczeniu. Urządzenie to może być podłączone do sieci Wi-Fi, dzięki czemu użytkownicy mogą sterować nim z dowolnego miejsca. Dodatkowo, regulator jest wyposażony w szereg funkcji, w tym możliwość zaprogramowania automatycznego startu i zatrzymania, zmiany temperatury w czasie rzeczywistym itp.
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That was the bomb in it's day. They had one just like it that did heat pumps, don't remember the model #. I used to service a community college in the 90's that had @ 30 heat pumps with the Chrontherm thermostats. One of my favorites as well friend. Love it or hate it the T87-F was probably the most prolific thermostat of all time. I still am using a total line mini cube programmable stat that I bought back @ 1995. I even took it with me when I moved. It has done a furnace and a heat pump.
I still have the Chronotherm III on my circa 1991 heat pump system. I think it may predate yours. Warmer and cooler are not red and blue colored, and the fan and mode switches are on the base, not the thermostat itself. Display is a bit faded, but the little bugger is still going strong!
Your Honeywell Chronotherm III may not be fried. I've got the same model which had an identical problem which was corrected by cleaning the gold contacts (male & female) on both sides of the thermostat and docking pad. I used Brasso polish on a Q-Tip and moist paper towel on a toothpick to pat dry. Done during 2010 and still works great in 2014!
This great as it is the ONLY video that reflected the problem that I am having. May God bless you that you may be recognized as a Child of His that is making a difference in the lives of other people.
I don't see too many of those things still around. I pretty much hate any old thermostats, haha. I can program the Honeywell 6000's by heart. Must have changed out over 100 this summer. If I replace one of those dinosaurs I'll send it your way.
@PutSome5tankOnIt Just curious, where in a stat would you have an inductive load high enough to generate sufficient heat to trick the thermistor? I would think a more likely source of heat would be contact resistance, especially considering you observed discoloration which implies oxide buildup...
@PutSome5tankOnIt I understand, I was only trying to help you understand the probable cause... AC circuits have a reactive and resistive component, the vector sum of which is called impedance. The reason a heating element gets hot is because it's made from a wire having a high resistance. When oxidation builds up on contacts you are left with the same scenario. The resistance increases and therefore turns the contacts and supporting conductors into small heating elements.
Correct. All you have to do is disassemble it and clean the keypad contacts with rubbing alcohol.
@PutSome5tankOnIt You are right on the money! Mine is a T8611G, 5-1-1 programmable. Tan in color with black powered subbase. I don't even remember the last time the batteries were changed in it since they only power it when it is removed from the base or during a power failure.
I just had to have my 1998 vintage Chronotherm II replaced with a FocusPro TH5000 thermostat. Already miss the programmability. Apparently, the thermostat acted normal, but it wasn't turning on the gas valve.
Mine still works! The only issue is the LCD is getting dimmer at the bottom of the display. I do not want to replace it with the unreliable complicated junk they sell now.
Nice video's good to see them again. 1994 i was 24, a young dumb sheet metal guy lol.
@PutSome5tankOnIt Damage due to a shorted coil? Typically resistors like thermistors and the like are unaffected by stray inductance. Inductive heating only happens significantly in conductors and the magnetic field generated by a load of an amp or less is very small. The object being heated would have to be very very close to it. Resistance however will cause the conductor itself to liberate heat.
I sooo want to get rid of mine. It was installed in '95 when I built the house and it's got a LOT of wires(lettered), so many that the Nest upgrade compatibility app says no way.
i still have this one...jerry-rigged...thank you for letting me know what it's supposed to look like...i may take a screwdriver to that 2A screw
R.I.P. ole girl !!! Man I remember the old chronotherm III That Suks about your old stat !!! I was jonesing to hear from 5tank !!! Whats up my brother , what a fantastic treat to hear ya on line !!! I hope all is well my friend !!!
We have the very same thermostat!!! And it is stuck on hold and it won't cool, so much. We can't get the numbers to stay up, or to stop saying hold. We changed the filter in furnace, thinking that might be a bit helpful. Sure would love to get it to say 72 degrees and not 86!! I can't believe we we found you and the thermostat unit!! Any suggestions please ail back!!! Thank you for your video!!!
check ebay ;) and get ya another one you can by anything on ebay lol old out dated , and we can tell you would buy it's twin for 5 bucks more than a modern one at the parts house if they still made it lol , it's crazy how we become attached to stuff , or just get so used to it , do you really think those stats save us any money ? I disabled the program on mine because I felt it just over worked my system on catchup , but dang I have installed 100's of them everyone just has to have one lol
so sad. i love the setup you have ther.lol
my problem is the batterey keep runing of , when I put a new one , in couple hours the batterey going off ,
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